I am writing basic instructions for the breeches i made just as a reminder if in the future i would need them.
- After flat tacking the leg pieces together, cut down the middle line at the top of the fronts, and cut down to the length of the yolk.
- Prepare the yolk by sewing together with the right sides together, the top and center front lines and bag it out, then press.
- Sew the yolks to the trousers, only through the top fabric of the yolk, and make sure they are put on the right side. press, then slip stitch the raw edge of the lining.
- Sew the crotch together, press the seam open and over lock the edges separately.
- for the lining of the flap, sew both pieces together, press and cut down the seams. sew the hem by double turning it, the sew it to the flap on the top edge.
- Now attach the jiggers (make sure they are tacked and both triangle match) sew it onto the flap along the tacked line. make the triangle and tack it so it stays that shape.
- To turn it to the other side, cut into the jigger in the middle but only so far that the other half goes round the back and lies flat.
- Slip stitch the triangle down following up the side to where it goes around the back, and also slip stitch the back of the jigger to the yolk.
- Its now time to do the bigger pocket, follow the western pocket instructions (i will upload onto here)
- Then sew the seams together, starting with the inside leg, outside leg then the crotch (do not sew along all the way to the top of the center back, leave a bit for the waistband,) making sure that after each seam to over lock and press.
- Fold over the wide part of the seam at the bottom of the leg for the button placement line and herringbone stitch them down.
- Knee band: sew the triangle part of it together and again get them to match. Sew the knee band to the hem line, cut down and press the seam. fold it inside to hide the raw edge and slip stitch it down.
- Waistband: firstly do the pocket like the welt pocket. once the pocket is done, sew the waistband to the lining along the center front and the top edge, making sure on the inside (once turned to the right way) at the top the top fabric is showing about 3/4cm, trim the seam and turn the right way and press.
- Pin and sew the top fabric of the waistband to the waistline of the breeches, again trim and press the seam allowance. Turn the lining over and slip stitch it down.
- Sew the rest of the crotch up, press and over lock.
- Then whats left to do is button holes and buttons.
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